Recently, Kerryl and I had dinner at Grappa Restaurant. Grappa is in the center of Railroad Avenue, a hot spot of downtown Warwick. In good weather, Grappa offers alfresco dining in their courtyard, alongside La Petite Cuisine, The Blarney Stone Pub, The Eclectic Eye (antique store), a couple of women’s clothing shops (Blue and Marilyn's Consignment Boutique) and a chocolate boutique called Sweetbriar's.
The decor is hip, an avante-garde style more characteristic of Soho than of a traditional Italian restaurant - with original expressionistic paintings alongside the local pieces setting its artsy tone. The large exposed abstract brick wall is the centerpiece where one can’t help but contemplate emerging shapes and forms. The high ceiling, or should I say absence of ceiling, exposes planking, while a wood-burning stove in the center of the room adds more to its special character and ambiance.
Upon arriving, we were greeted by Tony, the owner, and shown to a table. Our drink of choice was a margarita, and when we asked for a selection of tequila, Leo – manager and head waiter – recommended the 100% agave Caba Wabo, explaining that it poured clearer than Patrone. When he brought the carefully balanced drinks contained in wide brimmed martini glasses filled to the tippy top without spilling a drop, Kerryl and I were very impressed. “Steady hand, like a surgeon,” I said. He responded, “I've been in the business a lifetime.”
Not feeling rushed, we sipped our drinks while picking on the complimentary asiago cheese and marinated zucchini, dipping our fresh, warm bread into the olive oil. An Andrea Boccelli CD was playing. Later, upon inquiring about music we had never heard before, Tony pointed out that he liked to play CDs brought in by some of their guests, as long as it sounded “nice.” I thought it would be nice to have a real piano, but I knew Grappa had been offering live music on Thursday nights for the last several months, which I also enjoy.
The dim lighting was perfect, helping to set the tone for a romantic evening, and the table arrangement with white tablecloth and lamp-shaped candle was classic. A fresh flower could only enhance the romance and experience even more.
Our waiter recited the specials by heart, giving each entrée a convicted hand gesture. After wavering between the grilled veal chop topped with Gorgonzola cheese and a chicken dish, I chose the former. Kerryl ordered Veal Saltimbocca - served over a bed of spinach and topped with prosciutto and cheese. There was some confusion, however, over the kind of cheese the veal was to be topped with, as Kerryl wanted fontina, indicating that on her last visit to Grappa, the veal with melted fontina was “out of this world.” When told the kitchen was out of fontina, she settled on shaved parmigiana.
At this point we asked for a wine list, looking for a reasonably priced bottle at around $25. The bottles of red wine started at $40, however. So we each ordered a house red, but neither of us was impressed. We would like to see a more premium house wine as an alternative choice. We enjoyed watching some of the theatrics surrounding us as the music played and the fire burned. To our left, our waiter was filleting and de-boning a fish, soon to be sautéed in a skillet at a side station for all to see. Service at Grappa is attentive but not overly so, giving patrons enough room for pleasant/intimate/adult/romantic conversation.
We shared a baby arugula salad topped with a generous portion of gorgonzola cheese and red onions. Then our main courses – my veal chop, thick, was cooked just the way I like it, with plenty of Gorgonzola melted on top, the way I like it. When Kerryl’s much anticipated meal arrived, it didn’t look like the same dish she had the last time we dined here. We narrowed it down to the small medallion sized pieces of veal and the parmigiana cheese. Tony explained how a cut of veal varies and graciously offered to remake the dish himself, this time topping the veal with mozzarella. It turned out much better. Each dinner was served with three wide cut roasted potatoes, crisp on the outside and tender inside, accompanied by a mix of julienne vegetables, sautéed in olive oil.
When dinner was over, we passed on dessert. However at the table next to ours, we noted the appetizing Strawberry Zabaglione, which was made tableside, clearly enjoyed by the couple seated next to us. We lingered over a cup of fresh brewed coffee long after our meal, indulging in the pleasure of the warm and attentive environs of Grappa Restaurant.
Overall, we enjoyed ourselves, as we have in the past. Tony, Leo, and staff were attentive, making us feel welcome and special. The ambiance, service, and food come together to make it a memorable dining experience in the Warwick Valley.